When you hear “derby”, does your mind drift to the splendid Ascot opening day scene from the 1964 movie My Fair Lady? I first stumbled upon this song in a school choir and, under the guise of mastering the lyrics, found myself hitting the replay button incessantly. Yet, even as a 15-year-old, it wasn’t just the catchy tune that had me captivated — it was the mesmerising fashion spectacle. Everyone appeared as if they had stepped straight out of a royal fashion portrait: the exquisite dresses, the elegant drapes, the flamboyant hats adorned with feathers, and the gloves that whispered of a bygone era of grace. Could ladies really dress like that for a sporting event? The opulence seemed almost too grand for an outdoor event… but in the world of fashion, more is more.
As the racing industry gears up for the Dubai World Cup today, we unwrap the art of racewear and derby dressing.
Historically, racewear was heavily influenced by societal norms and the stringent decorum of the upper classes. For men, the traditional attire at prestigious events like Royal Ascot was the morning suit — a tailcoat, waistcoat, striped trousers, and a top hat. This ensemble symbolised the gentleman’s status and was non-negotiable for entry into certain areas of the racecourse. Women, on the other hand, adhered to a similarly strict but more stylistically varied code. Dresses were long and the fabrics conservative, with hats obligatory. The focus was on elegance and modesty, with outfits designed not to overshadow their wearer’s social standing but to appropriately enhance it. The Royal Enclosure at Ascot, for example, required dresses with straps of a certain width and hemlines that fell just above the knee or longer.
Tamaraah Al Gabaani
Today, while the essence of traditional dress codes remains, there’s a noticeable shift towards more contemporary styles. “Race day fashion used to be all about uniformity — fitted dresses, jackets and skirts, matching fascinators, and classic pumps. Everyone followed the same formula. But now, it’s about celebrating individuality, and that’s what I love about fashion. It allows us to express who we are and embrace the best versions of ourselves,” points out seasoned Indian stylist and costume designer Anaita Shroff Adajania. Men still wear morning suits to certain areas of high-profile races, but there’s now room for creativity in the choice of ties, waistcoats, and even the colour of the tailcoat. For women, modern racewear speaks elegance and high fashion. Hemlines might rise a bit, and while hats are still a must, they vary from elegant fascinators to pieces of millinery art.
Fashion houses in the frayAs the 20th century unfolded, fashion houses began to see race days as prime opportunities to showcase their designs. Couture, known for its painstaking attention to detail and handcrafted techniques, found a perfect audience in racegoers who valued uniqueness and luxury. Designers like Coco Chanel and Christian Dior revolutionised women’s racewear in the mid-1900s by introducing styles that were both chic and suitable for daytime outdoor events. Today, brands such as Alexander McQueen, Givenchy, and Chanel’s Autumn/Winter lines continue to influence race day trends, with couture dresses that feature bold prints, experimental fabrics, and silhouettes that blend past traditions with modern fashion sensibilities.
The star of the nightNo discussion of racewear is complete without mentioning the art of millinery. Hats are not merely accessories but pivotal elements of race day attire, carrying a weight of tradition and contemporary fashion statements. The demand for bespoke hats has given rise to celebrated milliners like Philip Treacy and Stephen Jones, whose creations are as much a work of art as they are fashion statements. At events like the Kentucky Derby, The Royal Ascot and the Dubai World Cup, hats range from the elegantly sublime to the avant-garde, often stealing the spotlight and garnering as much attention as the races themselves.
Luxury brands’ impactThough most luxury brands have adeptly woven their narratives into the fabric of racewear, their involvement goes beyond mere sponsorship — they now shape how racewear is perceived and worn. Brands like Longines, Rolex, and Louis Vuitton sponsor major racing events, aligning themselves with the prestige and heritage of the sport while showcasing their latest collections. These partnerships are strategic, as the demographics of racegoers often overlap with the target audiences of these high-end brands, creating a symbiotic relationship between luxury and leisure. But what would today’s Gen-Z and millennials wear to the races? Anaita says, “I’d kick off a millennial’s race day look with a bold, head-to-toe colour moment — think pastel peppermint pink or periwinkle blue. It’s all about mixing textures, playing with lace, a hint of fringing, and committing fully — from the fascinator to the shoes, all in one striking hue. Clean, cohesive, and effortlessly chic.”
What can we expect? What are the essentials for standing out at a high-profile event like the Dubai World Cup? Judge Sarah Silsbury highlights key elements the Style Stakes panel looks for. Avoiding all-black outfits is crucial; a range of colours from muted darks to vibrant brights and soft pastels is preferred. The judges appreciate dresses that cover the arms and are at least knee-length, with a cinched waist and elegant draping to make a lasting impression. Additionally, choosing the right hat is vital — it should not only complement the outfit but also match the clutch and the overall colour theme, enhancing both the look and its cohesion.
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